Coconut Milk?

I have been dancing around the thought of coconut milk for the past 4 months. I have just recently discovered (since looking up from my busy life) that I am 4 months post relaxer!!! I have made up my mind that I will not be relaxing for another two months. I will put in my traditional "start-of-the-spring-semester"semi-individual braids, do that regimen for two months, nurture my hair for the three weeks following, and relax sometime in March.

Back to the coconut milk, so I was browsing various hair care boards and decided that it was time to try the milk. Tonight I plan to put in in a spray bottle and use it to saturate my hair like a pre-poo. Then I will D/C with some Dove Daily moisture and co-wash it out with VO5 kiwi clarifying conditioner. I plan to roller-set with my Aphogee leave-in and Fantasia IC heat protection serum.

RESULTS

Well, I thought that the Coconut oil was going to aid my d/c, but I was wrong. When I sprayed it on the new growth, I immediately noticed that it became silkier and more manageable (as far as detangling is concerned. I saturated my entire head root to tip and only used Dove only on the edges to stop the drip. I added a plastic baggy and wrapped that with a towel for over an 1 hour ( my intentions were 15 minutes but I fell asleep).

SO I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO DEEP CONDITION AFTERWARD BUT...I was so wrong!!! My heart said stop when I rinsed each half of my head with luke-warm water. As I let it air-dry in two loose french braids, I realized that my hair felt soft and a little stronger and the new growth was a little looser!. I decided that it was okay to just detangle using my Aphogee leave-in and Fantasia serum.

Loved this experience!!!

NOTE: It is very important to avoid heat and hot water while using the coconut milk or the thicker substance in the milk will curd in your hair.

My wash day: Christmas day

Well this week has been a good week for my hair in general. I mean REALLY GOOD!

I have been looking at naturals and taking tips from them because I want to transition in 2011. I have about 2 inches of new growth that is making me want to relax. And at 18 weeks post, I am really hoping this works during the next semester of college. So, I have a full thing of Silk Elements that I have been itching to try since I ran out of ORS on standby. My relaxer journey is not what I expected (<---which is to be expected). Nonetheless, I am greatful for all of the discipline and understanding of my hair that has taken place over the last two years.



On to the week. I was really good about listening to my hair this week. I co-washed 1x. I moisturized and sealed every night starting with a water spritz first, then following up with a dab of LTR and ORS carrort oil sealed with coconut oil. I skipped the ORS on the nights I did not co-wash.



To co-wash, I rinsed the hair well for 5 minutes and slathered on Dove Daily Moisture from root to end while I did my workout as like a deep condition. After that, I rinsed my hair and co-washed with my Tresumme moisture rich in sections and plaited each section. Lastly, I moisturized with HE LTR and ORS carrot oil and sealed with coconut oil.



Friday, I pre-pooed (all day) with olive oil sealed with coconut oil. Then, I rinsed the hair with warm water for 5 minutes and cleansed it with Hair ONE for dry hair. I let that sit for 5 minutes. My hair felt soooooo good after I rinsed. Why did I go back to shampoo?! Anyway, I thought that it was time for some protein so I did the Aphogee 2-min (honestly for about 10 mintues under a cap). Rinsed and added my deep condtioner: ORS replenishing pak. I dc-ed with no heat overnight. When I got in the shower on Saturday, I sectioned the hair down the middle, then in fours on each side (this made it real easy to detangle). Since I had more time, I had more patience with my hair and I used my Jibere shower comb after detangling each section with my hands from the ends to the root. By using my hands first, I was aslo able to find those stubborn knots which I was able to clear using the rub method for knots.



**To clear out stubborn knots I just gently rub the knot in between my fingers until the hairs loosen and I pull them out a few at a time. LOVE IT!



I braided my hair in the shower in eight braids and moisturized each braid with LTR, ORS and Fantasia serum, combed it all through and re-braided putting a little curl at the end with my fingers.



Lastly, I sat under the dryer for 30 minutes (on low) to dry my hair for a braid-out.

This week's hair stuff

December 19: I pre-pooed overnight with Evco and shampooed that out with my watered down Nexxus. then I followed that with my Tresumme Moisture rich and detangled in four sections the shower and plaited each section. When I got out, I blotted the hair and added my leave-ins in this order:

*Aphogee leave-in

*Aloe vera

*Cream of nature creamy leave-in

*Fantasia Ic Serum.

I combed each one through each time I add

Then, I let my hair air-dry in a rollerset and flat ironed the root with a little Nexxus heat protectant spray. FYI: NO HEAT touched the ends of my hair!

To maintain over the next four days, I just moisturized nightly with evco and wrapped the hair with my hands. I loved the softness and manageability of my hair so I think this regimen is a keeper!

December 22: I rinsed my hair with luke-warm water for 5 minutes then I slathered on some Dove daily moisture and did my workout. After that I gently rinsed the hair and co-washed it with some Tresumme. I used a t-shirt to soak up the water and then I moisturized and sealed with Herbal Essences LTR and evco. Then I plaited in 6 plaits.

-- On some long hair board I found, I was told to sleep with the hair in a position (like plaits) that inflicts the least amount of friction, movement, and stress. So, I think I may do that with the co-washes after workouts.

The star product for Decemeber: extra virgin coconut oil

Struggling to hold on

This may be a rant, but I am so tired of this hair journey mess. I still see breakage of all lengths; I can't afford some of the products I want to try; I really want an all-natural regimen; I need a trim; I need a relaxer; I want to transition; I want to be natural but my relaxed hair is helping me since its all I really know right now; I want braids to work now like they did in the past; I'm tired of set backs; I'm hard-headed; I don't listen my hair; I try to listen to my hair; This shyt takes too much time; I'm not sure if I care!!!!!!!!!!!

I went from texlaxed to relaxed and this is the regimen

My new staple routine since August - October 2010:

*I use this 1 - 10 weeks post relaxer.

- Prepoo/dc (OVER SATURDAY NIGHT) on scalp & hair w/castor oil or evoo or coconut oil - Condition-wash-condition: with Dove on ends only,
- Use a 30-70 mix of NTM, CON, or Nexxus Humectress poo on scalp only (lather and rinse well) and water (1 time only!!!)
- DC w/ matching conditioner and plastic bag w/heated cap for 15-20 minutes.
- Let hair cool down then cool water rinse.
- De-tangle in shower and in sections with Tresumme. Plait each section OR part hair for rollerset in shower.
IT WORKS!

Clarify after pool and use Aphogee 2-min before DC (if needed)

Leave-ins: Aloe spritz and 911 for dry hair

Moisturizer: 1/2 water 1/2 Clairol DR in s-curl bottle OR Ltr

Roller-set w/watered down 911 for dry hair and Fantasia IC heat serum then bun M-F knot-out or twist-out updo on weekends.

Nightly:
-Aloe spritz (keep refrigerated)
-911 leave-in for dry hair
-Pea-sized amount of LTR to ends and edges
-Seal with SAO
Wrap, tie down, baggy (<---my hair loves baggying)


Products to ditch: NTM line.

Staples: Tresumme, Dove, Nexxus, Cream of Nature and natural oils

Wigging/Bunning until: End of Spring semester 2011

This came from my KISS blog for July

I just want to say thank you to those ladies that have read these crazy long post of mine and left wonderful tips and comments. I started this blog as sort of an online journal because I couldn't properly track my progress, products, techniques, and overall journey. That is why you see the same format month to month. I found that monthly regimens help me listen to my hair's needs because I was not so responsive my first year. So, thanks for critiquing my hair care diary. Keep 'em coming!

Setback(s) & Problems:
June 2010: I'm still stretching, so that's a problem within itself. But, my overall breakage, especially at my line of demarcation, has slowed tremendously. I am about 22 weeks post and I am trying to keep things soft and strong like I am supposed to. Still recovering from January's braid/matting issue which won't be fully resolved until I get a 1 inch trim with my relaxer in August.

Solution to June's problem: oil pre-poos, C-W-C method, Mane 'n Tale detangler,
TRESemme vitamin e conditioner mixed with sweet almond oil (sao) as a co-wash, Aphogee green tea, Ion Repair solutions, LOADS of PATIENCE, and my new friend: CHI Keratin Mist.

Current hair status: A little past SL/CBL in the back and CBL and NL on
the sides, moderate/light breakage, with some under-processed sections,
soft but ends are still not as healthy as I would like. I am exactly 22 weeks and 1 day post relaxer. My goal is to get my stretching regimen down while my hair is not very long, and so far...it's working!


Current solutions to try: Continue to listen to my hair, day-to-day, week-to-week- and month-to-month. Summer school has forced me to stretch 8 more weeks than I intended. So I am going with the flow and learn along the way.
I will list below my techniques followed by products because while products are good, techniques make the outcome of using products great.

A. Using a lighter touch when combing, detangling, and braiding/setting. I know it sounds redundant, but I am naturally heavy-handed and I have to keep reminding myself. I only use my shower comb when detangling.
B. Detangling: I like detangling in the shower with my hands first then the comb next, in four sections with TRESemme Vit e (only). I have not found any other conditioner that gives me the kind of slip I can trust. This month I am testing Dove daily moisture as an alternative, but TRESemme Vitamin E is my staple. Detangling outside of the shower requires Mane n Tale Detangler and a moisturizing liquid leave-in. Right now, my favorite is Aphogee's leave-in spray.
C. The weekly protein treatments with the Aphogee system that helped me combat my breakage are now going to be monthly. The Aphogee shampoo, green-tea, and 2-minute will be replaced with Ion Repair Solutions (from Sally's) and CHI keratin mist. I like to clarify before using protein and follow up with a moisture d/c.
D. Styling: Buns all month did not work in June. Instead I ended up wearing my hair in braids and putting on a head-wrap and hat. I will wear the head-wrap (or wig) until the end of July because it's so easy.
E. Moisturizing: I totally fell off the boat with the nightly moisturizing bit. But, I did seal my ends with castor oil, doo gro oil, or sweet almond oil and extra conditioner.
F. Shampooing: I learned I really must pre-poo every time! Castor oil on my scalp every time (for the castor oil challenge); evoo, coconut, and/or sao overnight before wash day; and a moisturizing conditioner on the ends for the C-W-C method. For June I used HE HH or hydralicious or TRESemme (Note to self: I have been having so much fun trying different cheap moisture conditoners. HE conditioners work well 1-10 weeks post while lighter cons like TRESemme vitamin e and Dove daily moisture work well 10+ weeks post for my pre-poos. When I run out of hydralicious, I will try LTR).
G. Luke warm and cool water rinses worked well and I will continue to do this in July. I also did one ACV (1 part acv to 7 parts water) rinse that month which my hair loved! So I will do one this month. I also want to fit in black tea once a week before I d/c so that it can slow up some of this shedding.
H. I didn't have time to even look at my hair during the week so absolutely no combing during week was easy to do. With the braids and head-wrap, it is very easy to not manipulate my hair. But, it is also easy to neglect it as well, so I will co-wash my braids daily in the shower and use that time to m/s until wash day.

Products to try : - Nexxus Therapee and Humectress (alone or mixed into my Lustrasilk with evoo and sweet almond oil (sao)) for wash days - Dove Daily Moisture as a pre-poo/co-wash (testing this, it may replace my HE line because they are really thick which works right after a relaxer, but not at 10+ weeks post) - Nexxus Heat Protexx - Schwarzkopf zero frizz corrective serum extra strength serum w/UV protection (it was a buck at Publix and has panthenol, vitamin e, ceramide 2, and hydrolyzed wheat protein in it) -

Products to purchase - satin rollers (for my ends) - parachute unrefined coconut oil - HE LTR when hydralicious and Dove Daily moisture are used up - Lustrasilk's shea butter cholesterol (the new growth tamer) - TRESemme Vitamin E in the largest bottle possible - a cute, short, full wig (maybe) - bone comb (maybe) - 100% silk shirt (from the thrift store to turn in to scarfs) -

New Staples added to my reggie: Hair One olive oil for dry
hair (for cleansing hair after 10+ weeks post) and Lustrasilk Shea
butter cholesterol (for prepoos 10+ weeks post), CHI keratin mist (for a protein boost, especially at line of demarcation).

Products to modify or ditch: modify plastic hair combs and rollers with a
file and clear nail polish. Ditch: V05 clarifying shampoo (I really do not need clarifying shampoos. If I want to clarify, all I need to do is lather twice with what I have), Care free curl gold, and Profective Anti-breakage strengthening mega moisturizer.

This month's challenges:

1. No Trims (personal): April 1, 2010 til April 1, 2011 (only S&Ds)
   
2. Bun (Head-wrap/wig) Challenge (KISS): March 21 til December 21, 2010
3. Healthy Ends/Protective Styles Challenge (Hairlista): January 2010...
4. KISS Ultimate Challenge: for life and will continuously improve! ^_^
   

Reggie of the month:
Workout days (5x's a week):

• Put hair in bun coated with Tresemme (or Mane n Tale), evoo, and sweet almond oil (sao) and baggy hair while working out. Alternate protein and moisture.
  
• Co-wash with Tresemme moisture rich/sao (every time) and do a cool water rinse.
• M/s in four sections with watered down V05 and doo grow oil
  
• Air dry in four twists or braid with castor oil and silk roller at end (be sure to add extra oil and conditioner to ends).
• Wear head wrap, or braid/twist-out BUNS all week with ends moisturized and tucked away.
  
• Nightly: Mane n Tale detangler on n/g, m/s with watered down v05, doo grow or evoo and seal ends and edges with castor oil and twist/braid.
  

Weekly on Sunday:

• Make black tea and let steep overnight (Saturday), then put into a bottle with a nozzle on Sunday
  
• Pre poo scalp with castor oil and ends with any oil (over Saturday night)
• Coat ends with a little Dove Daily moisture for C-W-C
  
• Shampoo with Nexxus Therapee
  
• Rinse with black tea
  
• D/C with Nexxus Humectress (15 - 30 minutes w/heat)
  
• CHI keratin mist (concentrating on demarcation line)
  
• LTR leave-in (a small amount)
  
• Seal with doo grow (castor oil on edges and ends) and twist in sections
  
• Braid or twist to air-dry
  

Last Thursday of the Month:

• D/C on dry hair with coconut oil for 30 minutes then rinse with water
  
• C-W-C method with Dove Daily moisture on ends
• Shampoo with Aphogee for damaged hair 1-2 times (to clarify)
  
• Condition with Aphogee 2-min no heat 15 minutes with
  cap
• D/C with NEXXUS/CHOLESTEROL mix 15 minutes under dryer
• Rinse with ACV water and blot dry with t-shirt
  
• Add aphogee leave in, and CHI keratin mist (especially to line of demarcation)
  
• Seal ends with castor oil and add zero frizz corrective serum
• Twist or braid and air-dry

Co-washing contender to my TRESemme: Dove Daily Moisture Conditioner

I picked up this little goodie at Kroger on sale for around 3.00 for 12 fl. oz. I have been co-washing with it everyday this week. I am almost 23 weeks post and I am enjoying this as a co-wash in the place of my depleated favorite: TRESemme vitamin E with added sweet almond oil (sao).

Likes:

• VERY moisturizing (brought me back from a slight protein overload cause by a new serum)
• Cheap and accessible
• No additives, like sao, needed
• Rinses clean; Leaves no residue or smell (<---unlike HE HH)
• Small bottle for easy handling and space saving
• Upside down dispenser for easy dispensing
• Consistent results everytime

Dislikes:

• Not as cheap as TRESemme (40 fl.oz for 4.oo) versus Dove (12 fl.oz. for 3.00)
• Finshed bottle in about 8 days

Overall...IT IS A KEEPER!

My Relaxer Preparation Notes (caution: long but informative)

The preparation: (the following portion of this discussion is taken from an article written By Audrey Sivasothy a/k/a sistaslicks) My personal notes are in purple.

Step 1: Clean it Up! Your final shampooing should take place on the last 3-5 days before your relaxer. At this wash (particularly if you desire a straighter, more thoroughly processed result), you should use a clarifying shampoo to remove any deposits or product buildup on the hair. A clarifiying shampoo, or any "stripping" shampoo containing the detergents Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate or Ammonium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate will be strong enough to remove buildup and maintain a clean and clear head of hair.

Step 2: Toughen it Up!You should treat your hair to a protein treatment the final wash before your relaxer. Follow up the treatment with a good moisturizing deep conditioning. Giving your hair a protein treatment in the days leading up to your relaxer application gives your hair little more protein to work with going into the relaxer. This prevents the relaxing process from totally compromising the strength of your hair when your inner protein bonds are manipulated. To determine which strength of protein reconstructor to use, I would first do a breakage assessment of the hair. If you are already having some breakage, I would go with a moderate to heavy treatment for damaged hair. I recommend the Aphogee Treament for Damaged Hair (under $8) for heavy protein conditioning. If you don't have any noticeable breakage, then a lighter/milder treatment should be fine. I would recommend ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2-minute or Nexxus Keraphix as mild protein treatments. After you have completed steps 1 and 2, do not wash, scratch, or do anything to disturb your scalp. (I like to use HB castor oil on my scalp daily up to relaxer day.

Step 3: Protect It! The day of relaxer, pay special attention to the length and ends of your hair. The hair shaft and ends are especially vulnerable to damage from the relaxing process unless you protect them. Applying a light coating of something like olive oil, my mix: roux porosity control, mane n tale original and castor oil , a thick conditioner, grease or vaseline to your scalp and hair past the new growth prevents the rest of your hair from being "re-relaxed" as a result of overlapping and runoff during the final rinsing of the relaxer. Protection for the length and ends of the hair is essential because the short, compact nature of the new growth makes it is virtually impossible to avoid overlap. This "chemical run" and lack of protection for the shaft and ends is one of the many reasons quite a few relaxed ladies have thinner, and thinner ends. Also remember, that oiling the new growth itself may leave you underprocessed because the relaxer has to penetrate through the layers you have put on. If you want a straighter turnout, be sure that you do not coat your new growth-- only coat your scalp and hair shaft past the new growth. As always, apply protective base (vaseline, oil, grease) to your scalp, tops of ears, and other sensitive areas . The base will give you an extra layer of protection between the relaxer crème and those areas.

Step 4: Stand Test It! Perform a strand test before applying any relaxer (or hair coloring chemicals) to your hair, even if you have previously used the chemical in question. Our bodies change, and so does our tolerance and allergies to certain products. Also, it is not uncommon for companies to alter formulas over the years as well. A chemical that may have worked well for you for years may suddenly fail to give you desired effect it once did. Performing a strand test will always let you know where you stand.

Pre-Relaxer Considerations: When you're ready to begin the chemical relaxing process, please take time to consider the following questions:
1.) How straight should my hair be? How far should I go? The obvious answer is as straight as possible right? Wrong! Do not rely on a chemical relaxer to take you to a 100% degree of straightness. Remember, you can always flat iron your hair for a bone straight look anytime without compromising the inner structure of your hair. I recommend that you relax your hair only to about an 80-90% degree of straightness I prefer 70-85%, where some natural texture remains. Relaxing the hair bone straight increases your odds of hair thinning and loss over time. Your hair will hold moisture better and maintain much of its natural strength if you do not relax your hair bone straight.
2.) Can I Lessen the harsh effects of my chemical relaxer? Chemical relaxers contain very harsh ingredients, but you can reduce the aggressiveness of your chemical relaxer. To reduce the harsh effects of your relaxer, simply add 1/8 - ¼ of a cup of your favorite oil or conditioner to the creme. This additional material will help to condition your hair. It will also buy you valuable application time during your self-relaxing process by slowing the processing of the relaxer. Any oil or lightweight conditioner will do! I use olive oil.

STAGE 1: Prep Hair and Gather your Materials:

• Gloves - To protect your hands from harsh relaxer chemicals. Relaxer chemicals can irritate your hands and weaken or discolor fingernails which, like your hair, are composed of protein.


• Base/Oil - To protect your hair and scalp.Be sure to coat the entire length of hair to protect previously chemically relaxed portions from further damage.


• Relaxer - Choose your relaxer based on your own hair type and desired turnout. I use ORS lye normal for 15-20 minutes.


• Applicator Brush - Optional. For use if you do not wish to apply chemical relaxer creme with your gloved fingers, comb or mixing stick (that comes in no-lye kits).


• Towels - 1 Small hand towel for your face, 1 large towel to drape over your shoulders during relaxer application, 1 towel to drape during the rinsing stage, 1 towel to dry the hair, an extra clean towel just in case!


• Timer/Clock -To keep track of time


• Combs - After your initial four corner partings, a comb is optional. A comb can inadvertently scratch or irritate your scalp during relaxer application so use with caution. But, it lessens the additional heat from your fingers that can sometimes speed up processing. For a normal touch-up the back of a straight rattail comb can be used for application. For correctives ONLY, a wide-toothed comb may be used to comb the relaxer through the underprocessed sections.


• Neutralizing Shampoo - Select a neutralizing shampoo with a color alarm or indicator. Choose a chelathing neutralizing shampoo for no-lye relaxers to remove calcium deposits.


• Mild Protein Conditioning Treatment - for mid-relaxer protein conditioning step (optional). Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin reconstructor, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pacs are good protein conditioning treatments to use.


• Deep Moisturizing Conditioner - Select a thick, creamy moisturizing conditioner for following up your relaxer application. (See regimen builder)


• 4-8 clips/holders - To keep loose hair controlled while you section and apply relaxer to your hair. Plastic smooth clips are best!

Be sure to gather your materials well before you actually begin the relaxer application. Having everything you need beforehand will enhance efficiency and save precious time.

STAGE 2: APPLY THE CHEMICAL RELAXER IMPORTANT! Before you start your chemical relaxer application, make sure that you have properly prepared your hair to undergo this process by following the 4 critical steps in this article.

Application Methods:
A.) Gloved Finger Method - Hands are gloved and chemical relaxer is smoothed onto sections with the fingers or the back of a comb. This method offers less control for applying the relaxer neatly. The heat from your hands may also cause the relaxer to process quicker.

B.) Applicator Paintbrush Method- The professional recommended relaxer application. The hair is parted and relaxer is "painted" or smoothed onto the newgrowth with the applicator brush. This method also gives the user more control of the relaxer application and best prevents overlapping.

C.) Applicator Bottle Method - some have reported that this method gives lots of control due to the relaxer being squeezed directly onto new growth out of a nozzle. But be careful not to place the bead of relaxer too close to/on the scalp and be sure to "pull" the relaxer all the way down all of the new growth.

Application Steps:

• Step 1.) Divide your hair into 4 sections, parting your hair from ear to ear and then right down the middle. This will give you 2 sections in the front and 2 in the back.

• Step 2.) Work with one section of hair at a time. Use your clips to tie back the other sections of hair while you concentrate on the section you are working on. Begin working on the most resistant section of the four you have created, saving your edges and nape for last. You should either start an inch or two up from the neck line, or an inch or two back from the front hairline in the sections you are working on.

• Step 3.) Make ½ inch partings* in the section you are working on and apply the relaxer to the curly newgrowth. Take care not to overlap the crème onto the previously relaxed areas, and keep the relaxer away from your scalp. (Hopefully you will have already based your scalp so that if you do touch your scalp-you'll have a buffer to prevent damage). When you complete this section, unpin another and repeat.*Do not attempt to part through your hair perfectly with a comb, especially if you are several weeks post relaxer. This is unnecessary manipulation. Finger parting will work just as well. You want to part, lift, and apply to both sides. Be sure that you coat both sides of the hair strand with your mixture!Switch it Up! It is good to alternate your starting point with subsequent relaxer applications if you do not have any painfully resistant areas. For instance, if you begin with the back left section each and every time you relax, relax this section last the next time around. If you consistently relax a section first each time, this section of your hair becomes compromised because it is always exposed to chemicals for the longest periods of time. Years and years of relaxing this section first may begin to thin it out. Switch up your starting point from time to time, so that particular sections are not over exposed time and time again.

• Step 4.) Your relaxer should be processing your hair at this point and starting to break down your disulfide bonds. It is now your job to do the actual "straightening." Gently smooth and work the relaxer creme into the hair, making sure that you are not overlapping the chemical relaxer creme onto previously relaxed sections. Work the relaxer in a downward motion, making sure that you are keeping the cuticle layers pointing downward at all times. Your fingers should be smoothing the hair in ONE downward direction. Do not work the relaxer "against the grain," past the newgrowth, or down the shaft. DO NOT COMB THE RELAXER THROUGH THE HAIR. Keep your eye on the clock. Chemical relaxer timing depends on the texture, porosity, and condition of your hair in addition to the look you want to achieve. You should follow the time frame instructions for the relaxer you are planning to use. Speed is the key to a successful application. Do NOT wait until the relaxer begins to tingle or burn your scalp! Many of us have been raised to believe that the relaxer is "working" when it begins to tingle. This is far from the truth! The chemical relaxer is indeed working, but working on eating through your scalp and hair making it weaker by the second! Relaxers should never burn. Ever! You should never allow your hair to even reach the point of tingling. A tingling/burning relaxer is a sign that: a.) The chemical has been in contact with the scalp for entirely too long and b.) The relaxer has breached the protective base barrier that was placed on the scalp and is now working on breaking down the hair even further. By this point, you've waited too long to rinse and usually you can expect some scabbing, watering, or oozing of the scalp in the affected areas several days after the relaxer. These chemical relaxer burns are not "the cost of doing business." They should not be taking place period. Scabbing is a sure sign of improper relaxer application, and if you, a stylist, or someone else is applying your relaxers only to result in scabs later, drop them. LET THEM GO! They are causing you much more harm than good.

• Step 5: Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer crème from your hair with warm water. Ensure that all physical traces of relaxer have been rinsed. Your hair is still extremely vulnerable to relaxer damage due to the unstable, high pH pf the hair and your swollen, lifted cuticle layers. Handle your hair with extreme care!

STAGE 3: The Mid-Relaxer Conditioning Protein Step
Several relaxer formulations come with a mid-relaxer protein conditioning step that involves the application of a mild protein treatment between the relaxer rinsing and neutralizing stages of the chemical relaxer process. This five minute step is done essentially to restore protein stores lost or compromised during the relaxer application. The great thing about this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is that it can be safely performed with any chemical relaxer brand that you like and with any mild protein conditioner that you like! The steps are simple.

1. Thoroughly rinse the relaxer crème from your hair with warm water after processing.


2. Apply your mild protein conditioning treatment to your hair for three to five minutes.


3. Rinse thoroughly and proceed with the rest of your neutralizing procedure.

The Benefits: The main benefit of this mid-relaxer protein procedure is the maximum penetration of the protein molecules deep into the hair shaft that it permits. As you have read, relaxers disturb and destroy the protein bonding structure of our hair. This is the same structure that is responsible for our hair's strength and elasticity. The point after the relaxer is rinsed, and right before the neutralizing phase is the most critical point in the relaxing process for the hair shaft. It is here that the hair cuticle is most open and receptive to treatments. Yet another benefit of this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is the increased body, strength, and volume it gives the hair following a chemical relaxer. The hair does not exhibit that limp, thin lifeless look that it typically has after a fresh relaxer. This mid protein step actually increases the body and thickness of the hair shaft!Why this worksBecause of the relaxer's high pH, the cuticle layer is the most open it will ever be. Introducing the protein at this phase allows for maximum protein penetration and replacement due to the extreme lifting of the cuticle layer following the relaxing process.But Will the relaxer still continue to process my hair? The relaxing process is a chemical reaction that is not compatible at low pHs. Relaxers work in the 10-14 pH range. It is the low pH of the neutralizer that stops the neutralizing process, nothing special. Any and all of the products you apply following the rinsing of the relaxer help to gradually bring the pH of your hair back down to its normal pH of about 4.5 to 5.5. The water from the initial warm water rinsing of the relaxer has a neutral pH of around 7. The water's neutral pH helps bring the relaxer pH down a bit from its usual 10 to 14 pH range to a range of about 8 or 9 . The protein conditioner has a low, normalizing pH of 4 to 6 as well so it also brings your hair's pH down so that your hair isn't processing at full strength. The neutralizer finishes and seals the process. It typically bears the lowest pH of any product used during the relaxing process, so it helps bring down pH of the hair even more. This step is where the cuticles close back down the tightest. Doing the protein before this happens is the key, however, do not allow the protein treatment to linger on the hair longer than five to seven minutes. You still need to quickly move on to the rest of the neutralizing phase. This five minute protein step is optional, but it works!

STAGE 4: The Neutralizing Rinse
The neutralizing step is the most important, yet surprisingly most misunderstood phase of the relaxing process. Unfortunately, this step is where many relaxer applications go terribly wrong. If the hair is not properly neutralized, the relaxer will continue to work on the bonds within the hair strand. If the amount of relaxer residue still left remaining within the hair strand after you have neutralized and moved on is significant, then permanent hair loss and thinning will result. Neutralizer should be allowed to sit undisturbed on the hair shaft for 3 to 5 minutes before it is rinsed. It must be given sufficient time to actually penetrate the hair shaft, adjust the hair's pH, and halt the chemical reactions taking place deep within the hair strand. A few quick latherings and rinses will not get this done satisfactorily.**Note: During the neutralizing process (mid-protein and neutralizing shampoo steps), you should make sure that you are not roughing up the cuticle layers of the hair in any way. Always work your post relaxer products down the shaft in one direction. No lathering, or scrunching the hair, etc. The straighter you keep your hair during the neutralizing process, the straighter the hair will turn out in the end. As your hair is neutralizing, your hair's bonds are "freezing" or falling into their final, permanent place. If you direct the hair downward in a straight orientation with care:

1.) You ensure a neat arrangement of bonds in the final turnout and
2.) Reduce permanent damage to the shaft as the cuticles begin closing.

A color indicator is extremely important!Using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator or color alarm will reveal many things to you about the neutralizing process. One is that, relaxer chemicals are not easily removed from the hair shaft. Another is that gentle scalp scrubbing during the neutralizing process will reveal even deeper traces of relaxer. Even with the best basing, some relaxer will breach your protective layer. You must get this deep penetrating relaxer out as soon as possible. You should insist on using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator for all of your relaxer applications. This color alarm acts as a "litmus test " that reads the pH of a particular chemical and produces a tell-tell color to inform you of any chemical change. Relaxers raise the pH of the hair in order to lift and open the hair cuticle for the straightening process. Neutralizing shampoo enters the raised cuticle to lower the pH of the hair and halt the relaxing process. This litmus test is the only way that you can be 100% sure that the hair's pH has been restored to normal levels and that the chemical action of the relaxer has truly stopped within the strand. Relaxers are not surface-acting chemicals that can easily be rinsed away. These chemicals penetrate the hair shaft very deeply, so one or two quick rinses with a neutralizing shampoo is not enough to halt the relaxer action. With a typical neutralizing shampoo it can take anywhere from 15-45 minutes and several vigorous rinses before the color alarm indicates that you have removed all traces of the relaxer from deep within the hair strand.

Prepooing with Oils is a must for me!

My favorite oil to prepoo with is EVOO. I am an olive oil girl. Although, I would like to try Avocado oil and Macadamia nut. On my journey I also use cold pressed castor oil and EVCO (extra virgin cocconut oil). I also like Sweet almond oil for various uses like the hair, skin and nails. Bottom line...oils are a must!!!

My co-washing friend: TRESemme Vitamin E Moisture Rich Conditioner

I started using this as a pre-poo/dc at the beginning of my hhj. I used to workout with the conditioner in my hair.

A year and a half later, I realize this is an excellent co-wash when mixed with sweet almond oil.

I got the oil for $6.99 at Whole Foods and the TRESemme at Sally's for only $3.89 for a 40-ounce bottle! I added 1 tablespoon of oil for every 10 ounces to get wonderful results.

I used this as a co-wash last night, at almost 18 weeks post, to reduce manipulation, increase moisture (as a co-wash and leave-in), and to style hair while in the shower.

METHOD:

• I rinsed my hair thoroughly for about 5 minutes under the warm shower
• I gently squeezed the excess water from my hair and brushed my teeth (this gave my hair about 5 minutes to get rid of some of the water)
• I added the conditioner in 3 sections from root to tip (and lathered, so this let the conditioner sit for 5-10 minutes).
• Rinsed with luke-warm/cool water
• Squeezed out excess water and added a dime-sized amount to ends and edges and put in a wet bun with my silk wrap scarf.
• Once my hair was 30% dry, I removed the scarf, moisturized and sealed and tied my hair down with a dry silk scarf and baggied my ends.

RESULTS: The next morning, I lightly moisturized with TRESemme and sealed with castor oil and bunned my soft hair.

My HHJ Mainstays

There are a few quick things I need in my hair journey.

1. I love tweaking my regimen every 30 days. See my format here: http://keepitsimplesista.ning.com/profiles/blogs/may-2010-reggie-note-to-self. I'm only a year and a half into my hhj and my major set back was not listening to my hair. Trying to put it on a schedule was, for lack of a better term, stupid.
2. I must, must, must take my vitamins. Besides being for my overall health, they are great for energy (I feel slightly sluggish without them), and excellent for rapid hair growth.
3. I MUST work out everyday. I may rest on some Sundays, but usually I am doing something daily. Even if my family and I dance for only 30 minutes, I have to move. My favorite routines are on bodyrock.tv. These intense workouts are reminiscent of P90X or Insanity. MOST IMPORTANTLY: tracking my weekly exercise takes my mind off of watching my hair.
   
4. Flat irons, hot curlers, and pressing combs are a NO-NO in my regimen. As much as I am tempted, I do not use these tools because I have abused them in the past. So now I am forced to learn what to do with my hair without them because I don't own any.
5. Oils for: prepooing, mixing with co-washes and dc's are a must! Coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil and cold-pressed castor oil have helped me tremendously on my hair journey.
6. Blogging is best for tracking what I do in a chronological manner without the fuss. I've tried the hand-written thing, taking pics, forums, Microsoft word, Microsoft one-note, notepad and other methods, but blogging seems to be the neatest, easiest, and most fun.
   
7. Last, but certainly not least: A GENTLE HAND WILL RULE THE LAND. My main issue with breakage is that I am a heavy-handed chick and that needs to stop (not to mention I rarely get manicures).
   

A regimen to stretch with...

So, I am 17 weeks post and so far this stretch has been the most successful yet. I am learning to change my reggie every 30-60 days to keep up with my hair's ever-changing needs. Right now I have sl relaxed strands sitting on top of a 1 and 1/2 inch afro. The different textures are driving me crazy!!! So it's time to braid it up. Prayerfully the braids will last me all summer semester (I'm almost a senior in college!! Glory be to God!).

Tonight I plan to:

• Pre-poo with evoo (it would be castor oil but I ran out, I am a big fan of castor oil)
• Wash with hair one olive oil
• D/C with steam from my bath with my mix of Lustrasilk's Shea Butter Cholesterol plus, HE HH, and a tablespoon of each of the following oils: Vitamin e, tea tree, and grapeseed oil.
• M/S with V05 and water mix in my s-curl bottle and doo grow oil
• Air-dry in bantu-knots
  

This by far my favorite regimen for hair that has 1 inch or more of new growth. It softens both textures so that I am able to style more easily.

Tonight's reggie

So, I am 17 weeks post and so far this stretch has been the most successful yet. I am learning to change my reggie every 30-60 days to keep up with my hair's ever-changing needs. Right now I have sl relaxed strands sitting on top of a 1 and 1/2 inch afro. The different textures are driving me crazy!!! So it's time to braid it up. Prayerfully the braids will last me all summer semester (I'm almost a senior in college!! Glory be to God!).

Tonight I plan to:

• Pre-poo with evoo (it would be castor oil but I ran out, I am a big fan of castor oil)
• Wash with hair one olive oil
• D/C with my mix of Lustrasilk's Shea Butter Cholesterol plus, HE HH, and a tablespoon of each of the following oils: Vitamin e, tea tree, grapeseed, and sweet almond.
  

My first post...and it's about hair.

I went to Sally's today to buy the supplies to prepare for my braids. The sales representative suggested I try Ion Repair Solutions "effective care treatment" it says it is a light vegetable protein fortifier and moisturizer. So I will use as directed.
What I did:
*Pre-pooed overnight (and while I went on a quick run, w/TRESemme vitamin e conditioner
*Shampooed w/CON clarifying shampoo, rinsed and blotted dry
*Applied Ion on hair, with cap but without heat for 5-10 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

RESULTS: I did not like Ion at first. I am not sure if it is the amount of time I left it on (20 minutes) or the clarifying before it, or what. But when I felt my hair with the product it felt weird. Then when I rinsed, my relaxed hair was somewhat okay, but my n/g was dry. However, the next day, I only saw one broken strand in the sink (after plenty of manipulation). So, I think that it may replace my Aphogee system. Overall, my favorite protein conditioner is Nexxus Keraphix.