Back again!

 Well, well, well, if it isn't me. Relaxed...again. It has been a journey, and it just keeps going. Almost to BSL and back teaching in the classroom and doing stuff - living life, loving JESUS and my family. Keep it Graceful! TTYL.

Wash Day: 6/25/16

Step 1: On dry & blown out hair, add evoo and pull out shed hair.

Step 2: Put hair in 3 sections and add Dove nutritive solutions nourishing  Oil care conditioner with Argan oil blend.

Step 3:  Bantu knot each section and proceed to workout. (Alternative: use a bonnet dryer to heat up for 10 minutes.)

Step 4: shampoo with Jocio moisture recovery one time stretching hair taught while focusing only on scalp in the shower.

Step 5: Bantu knot/clip each section out of the way until entire head is pooed and rinsed.

Step 6: ( turn off water to conserve )  add Aussie moist three-minute miracle to each section and re-clip or Bantu knot (let it sit for 3 minutes).

Step 7:  Starting at the first section conditioner was added to, taking one section at a time, add some water on top of the conditioner from the squirt bottle and finger detangle the section then comb detangled the section. Keeping my the hair stretched, rinse section and twist or plait to keep it detangled.

Step 8: Wrap hair with towel to soak up excess water.

Step 9: Allow to air dry to about 50-75% dry. Add oil mix and heat serum to each section.

Step 10: blow dry from ends to roots with slight tension using denman and or comb attachment.

Weekly maintenance/style:
- For buns: use oil at night and set hairstyle before going to bed.

- Use oil and Bantu knots or two cornrows for workouts. Let dry completely and dry shampoo if needed for freshness.

- The hair can stay in braids and be styled the night before I have to go out. As less manipulation as possible.

Goal: to do this regimen again on Friday, July 9th.

My return, after God knows how long...wash day and I am 100% relaxer-free!

Step 1: PREP - rinse have thoroughly under warm water and divide hair evenly into four sections. Divide those four sections into two smaller sections and twist.

Step 2:PRE-POO - apply coconut oil generously from root to tip.

Step 3: cover with plastic cap and scarf. Proceed with workout, chores, errands etc.

Step 4: SHAMPOO roots in sections with APHOGEE KERATIN & GREEN TEA shampoo.

Step 5: t-shirt or towel wrap wrap hair to "dry"

Step 6: PROTEIN TREAT WITH APHOGEE HAIR STRENGTHENING KIT (from Target). Follow directions on product for products 1 & 2 in the kit.

Step 7: DEEP CONDITION with SHEA MOISTURE PROFESSIONAL COCOSHEA BIOLIPID COMPLEX with Agave Nectar & black seed oil REHYDRATING HAIR MASK (from Sally beauty online).

**DETANGLE WHEN RINSING and twist in sections before getting out of shower.

Step 8: Apply APHOGEE KERITIN & GREEN TEA leave-in and plait hair 12 plaits to air dry.

Step 9: take down each plait & lightly spritz loose section with liquid heat protection. Comb through and FLAT IRON USING THE "CHASE" method.

Step 10: NIGHTLY - wrap hair and tie with satin scarf. A light serum or sweet almond oil may be used before wrapping.

Next wash day: 5/22/16
Next flat ironing: November 22, 2016
Next trim: on or AFTER November 22, 2016

NATURAL AND HAPPY (1 year & 8 months hair journey update)

In February 2012, I did a big chop after 4 months of transitioning on apl (arm-pit length) hair. I started my natural journey with about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of hair.  My style was almost a twa (teeny-weeny afro).  With 4 months of new growth, you would think I could have just kept transitioning, but I did not. The rationale for this choice was to go ahead and learn what products/techniques my natural hair texture would like the most without having to cater to two different textures AND the dreaded line of demarcation (you know, where the permed hair ends and the natural hair begins).  Also, just to be real with myself - I knew I was not going to be as patient, gentle, and timely with treatments as transitioning hair demanded, so the short do really worked for my level of commitment.

Please do not misunderstand - this does not mean that I was able to neglect caring for my natural hair, it just means that the time required to care for my hair overall was decreased.

Over the past year and 9 months, I have through many styles: from wash and goes' (where you just co-wash, add some leave-ins, maybe some gel, and go!); to afros; to mini-individual twists on natural hair; to twisted cornrows under wigs; and wigs, Wigs, WIGS, and more WIGS!.  With the wigs, I must confess, sometimes my hair got neglected and dryness was able to creep in which led to struggles with single-stranded knots, tangles, split-ends and breakage.

I must be completely honest, loads of trial and error with moisturizing techniques, regimen building and testing different products have occurred, as predicted, throughout this year. I have also had about 3- 4 major trims which leaves me to the main point...WHERE IS MY HAIR NOW?

Well, as of November 1st, 2013, after a major trim and flat iron, I am happy to report that my hair is SHOULDER LENGTH (sl) and I am loving it!!! I do believe that with a little more TLC during the first year, I could have easily been apl by now, but I won't complain. I will take what I have and take this journey one day, week, and year at time. I now focus on maintaining health, health, health, and try to check length maybe twice a year or less!

My goal length by 2015 is full mid-back length (mbl) (which, prayfully, I WILL make!).  I will also try get more committed to posting my products, techniques, styles and progress at least on a monthly basis on this blog, so stay tuned for more updates.

Enjoy YOUR hair journey.

 Sincerely,
Graceful Confidence 

February of 2012 marks the last big chop for me. I did a bc back when I was 18, then permed about 2 years later (after my son was born). Finally, after growing my hair out to arm-pit length, permed; I decided that I would be natural for the rest of my life. I vowed to myself that once I graduated college, I would return to my roots. In February 2012, I finally took that leap of faith and let go of the chemicals. It is a learning curve for me all over again, but I am sure glad I did!!

I love the me God created.
The End.
(Maybe)

Ending 1 year stretch??

This is what I did to my hair about 7 months ago (August 2010):

After a 6 month (Jan/Feb 2010 - Aug 2010) stretch I relaxed with ORS normal for 20-30 minutes.

Prior to that, I clarified, d/c-ed with Nexxus and flat ironed 1 week prior, wore bun all week, and did not scratch.

Then relaxer day:
-Based all week HB castor oil, then Proline on relaxer day.
-Rinsed relaxer for 10 minutes
-I did a mid-protein step with the Optimum normalizer (5 mins)
-Shampooed with (in the following order:) ORS chelating, Color alarm (til white lather), and Porosity control.
-Conditioned with Porosity control (3 minutes)
-Deep Conditioned with Nexxus, ORS rep pak, SAO and other oils
-Co-washed and detangled with Dove daily moisture

-911 leave-in for dry hair (my favorite)
-Nickle-sized amount of LTR to ends and edges
-Sealed with SAO and serum

-Air-dry in pony tail with roller-set on bangs and ends.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What NOT to do while stretching...

So.... last week, I thought that I could get creative and co-wash my half-natural, half-relaxed cornrows WITHOUT TAKING THEM DOWN. Let me repeat..... I TRIED TO CO-WASH MY HAIR WHILE IT WAS IN 1 WEEK OLD BRAIDS THAT I HAD WORN UNDER A WIG ALL WEEK. Neglecting all of the following rules of long-term stretching like:

• Detangling the hair before putting water on it


• Making sure not to stress the hair at the line of demarcation


• Keeping the hair clean (but still moisturized) to help ward off tangles in the first daygum place!

You might be wondering how I thought co-washing was going to help. Well I kept hearing this screeching chant in my head saying: "low-manipulation, low-manipulation, low-manipulation", that I let get the best of me so I tried it. Let me just say that by doing so, I managed to:

• Lock in the tangles from the week by adding water to my hair w/o pre-poo or detangling


• Put undue stress at the line of demarcation by trying to "work" the conditioner into and out of the braids (I saw the breakage to prove it when it was all over).


• Not rinse my hair clean because too much condition got caught up in the braids.

In other words...I won't go down that road, ever again. Ladies, do not try this at home (or anywhere else) !

Wigs and Stretching

Well for February 2011 I basically did what I had been doing since the beginning of the year. But, with all of the extra new growth I was getting tired and I almost relaxed during I break I had the first week of March. But, then it hit me: BUY A WIG (or two), and that is what I did.

With the wig regimen, I have been wearing my hair in 6 cornrows and spraying them daily (almost, maybe every two days) with:

- Aloe vera juice and 911 leave-in spritz
- African Royal Braid x
- Mane 'n Tale detangler (only if I encounter a knot)

Also, I try to take each braid down at least twice in the week, spritz it with my moisturizers, remove any shed hairs and moisturize with my ORS green lotion (which has also been watered down with aloe for a creamier consistency).

- Sealing nightly, especially on ends and edges with Doo Gro oil or SAO.

I am trying so hard to stretch until August 2011, but I still, still, still experience some breaking. Although, I think that I only get about 5-10 broken strands per week. I don't know if I am paranoid or what!

What I want to do on wash day May, June, and July to get me to August 1 is:

- Detangle dry hair using Mane' n Tale spray (gently of course from ends to root)

- Deep condition on dry hair with my Lustrasilk mix (CON, Lustrasilk Shea butter mango, Roux porosity control, peppermint oil, and other oils)

- Shampooing with Hair one 3x's a month and Cream of nature only once a month when I do my ORS rep pak (possibly after my Aphogee 2-min) OR for a lighter protein route, I may just add Mane 'n Tale to my dc mix up above because my new growth does not like the medium protein.

- Co-wash often with Tresumme or Dove (something ULTRA moisturizing)
(especially after each workout)

- M/S nightly with my sprays and light oils (my hair responds better). I will only use ORS green lotion on the ends on each wash day before I seal.

- I will try to rollerset (with Fantasia IC) before I braid with endpapers (my hair responded to this well also).


If this does not work in May, I will be relaxing and trimming.

Tonight's wash: January 26, 2011

This past Sunday I did the wash from this blog post: http://gracefulconfidence.blogspot.com/2011/01/reggie-for-second-half-of-my-first-1.html. Since it was moisture-based, I decided to follow up with a mid-week prepoo, D/C co-wash ordeal with Mane 'n Tale and Dove Moisture and Tresumme Vitamin E.

My hair has been in 6 braids (no weave) all week (I used BraidX as a moisturizer under a baggy to moisturize nightly and I wore a head-wrap this week).

- I used Mane n' Tale on dry hair under a low dryer for 15 minutes (I just smushed in the braids)
- Rinsed well and added Dove for 15 minutes under dryer.
- Co-washed then rinsed and spritzed hair with a mix of aloe vera juice and 911 leave-in.
- Moisturized (mid-shaft/ends ONLY) with Tresumme and sealed with olive oil and re-braided anything that came loose during the wash.

That is all!

Reggie for the second half of my first 1-year stretch.

Setback(s) & Problems:
I'm still stretching, so it is quite a challenge. But, my overall problem is light breakage. I am about 24 weeks post and I am trying to keep things soft and strong like I am supposed to. Still recovering from January 2010's braid/matting issue which won't be fully resolved until I get a 1 inch trim with my relaxer in August, which will put me at 1 year post relaxer!!!

Solution to breakage problem: oil and/or conditioner pre-poos overnight, (C-W-C method), detangling with Mane 'n Tale detangler before every pre-poo and wash, TRESemme vitamin e conditioner mixed with sweet almond oil (sao) as a final rinse-out quick conditioner, Aphogee 2-minute, Ion Repair solutions (not currently using), LOADS of PATIENCE and GENTLENESS, air-drying in braids or rollersets and my new friend: Lustrasilk Aloe Vera super detangling cholesterol. Washing and conditioning in 6 braided sections and super low-maintanence styles like my headwrap and clipped up-do's.

Current hair status: A little past SL/CBL in the back and CBL and NL on
the sides, moderate/light breakage, soft but ends are still not as healthy as I would like. I am exactly 24 weeks and 1 day post relaxer. My goal is to get my stretching regimen down while my hair is not very long, and so far...it's working!


Current solutions to try: Continue to listen to my hair, day-to-day, week-to-week- and month-to-month. DO WHAT WORKS. Using my blog as a journal to remind me of what is going on AND getting off of the product-junkie bandwagon. I research now for techniques versus products.

A. Using a lighter touch when combing, detangling, and braiding/setting. I know it sounds redundant, but I am naturally heavy-handed and I have to keep reminding myself. I only use my shower comb when detangling.

B. Detangling: I like detangling in the shower with my hands first then the comb next, in four sections with TRESemme Vit e (only). I have not found any other conditioner that gives me the kind of slip I can trust. This month I am testing Dove daily moisture as an alternative, but TRESemme Vitamin E is my staple. Detangling outside of the shower requires Mane n Tale Detangler and a moisturizing liquid leave-in.

C. The bi-weekly protein treatments with Aphogee 2-minute, ORS replinishing pak and Aphogee leave-in are helping me combat my breakage issue.

D. Styling: Since school is in, I have been wearing my head-wrap and so far, I like it.

E. Moisturizing: I will re-committ to moisturizing, sealing and baggying every night. My hair likes Doo grow, olive oil and coconut oil over the ORS carrot oil (for the winter).

F. Shampooing: I learned at 6 months + post relaxer I really must detangle with a detangler and pre-poo overnight every time! Castor oil, evoo, coconut, and/or sao overnight before wash day; and/or my Lustrasilk Aloe Vera detangling conditioner (a moisturizing conditioner on the ends for the C-W-C method) For June 2010 I used HE HH or hydralicious or TRESemme (Note to self: I have been having so much fun trying different cheap moisture conditoners. HE conditioners work well 1-10 weeks post while lighter cons like TRESemme vitamin e and Dove daily moisture work well 10+ weeks post for my pre-poos. When I run out of hydralicious, I will try LTR after my next relaxer).

G. Luke warm and cool water all the time works well and I will continue to do this indefinitely. I also did one ACV (1 part acv to 7 parts water) rinse that month which my hair loved! So I will do one this month. I also want to fit in black tea once a week before I d/c so that it can slow up some of this shedding.

H. I didn't have time to even look at my hair during the week so absolutely no combing during week was easy to do. With the braids and head-wrap, it is very easy to not manipulate my hair. But, it is also easy to neglect it as well, so I will co-wash my braids daily in the shower and use that time to m/s until wash day.

Products to try: - Lustrasilk Aloe Vera Detangling Cholesterol-

Products to purchase - ORS replenishing pak in the bottle - Dove Daily moisture (large) - TRESemme Vitamin E and Smooth n Silky (largest bottles) - a new black hat (maybe) -

New Staples added to my reggie: Hair One olive oil for dry hair and V05 clairifying conditioner (for cleansing hair after 10+ weeks post); Lustrasilk Shea butter cholesterol and the Aloe Vera cholesterol (for prepoos/DC 10+ weeks post), peppermint oil (for a relaxing deep conditioning experinence).

Products to modify or ditch: modify plastic hair combs and rollers with a
file and clear nail polish. Ditch: V05 clarifying shampoo (I will use this to clean my combs and brushes. If I want to clarify, all I need to do is lather twice with a moisturizing shampoo), Schwarzkopf zero frizz corrective serum (way too much protein), Profective Anti-breakage strengthening mega moisturizer (was using for braids, but I do not plan to braid my hair any more) Nexxus line except the heat protexx spray (when used up because less expensive products work just the same).

Challenges:

1.No Trims (personal): April 1, 2010 til April 1, 2011 (only S&Ds)

2.Clipped Bun (Head-wrap/wig) Challenge (KISS): January 2011 til December 21, 2011
(With 3 heat passes ONLY: June, November, and December (graduation))

3.KISS Ultimate Challenge: for life and will continuously improve! ^_^

Reggie of the month:
Workout days (5x's a week):

Put hair in bun coated with Lustrasilk Aloe vera or Mane n Tale, evoo, and sweet almond oil (sao) and baggy hair while working out. Alternate protein and moisture.

Co-wash with Tresemme moisture rich/sao (every time) and do a cool water rinse.

Spritz hair with aloe juice and 911 leave-in root to tip

a. Seal with a light oil and serum then rollerset. OR

b. M/s on ends with ORS carrot oil and an oil (castor, evoo, sao, coconut, whatever) and braid.

Air dry in braids or rollerset. Always air-dry

•Wear head wrap, or braid/twist-out BUNS in clip all week with ends moisturized and tucked away.
•Nightly: m/s with aloe spritz, ORS carrot oil doo grow or evoo and seal ends and edges with castor oil and braid or cross-wrap. Baggy and go to sleep.

If my new growth becomes really unruly, then coconut milk d/c every 6 weeks or so will do the trick!

I have not touched my hair in two weeks!!

Over the past two weeks, I have been very busy. My hair has been in 4 very crappy braids under a head-wrap. So when I could remember my hair, I slapped anything I could on it ( olive oil or liquid leave-in) and baggied 3 out of the 14 nights of neglect.

However, I replenished some staples and I am going to get to work on my hair.

Items I bought:
-Lustrasilk cholesterols (the shea butter and the aloe vera)
- 911 liquid leave-in
- Cream of Nature moisture-active deep conditioning treatment with jojoba and olive oil
- Mane N' Tale detangler
- Magenta magnetic rollers
- Silk rollers (finally)

This weekend I plan to:
1. Detangle with my afro comb in very small (1 inch) sections with Mane n' Tale detangler
2. Pre-poo (from root to tip) with Lustrasilk's Aloe Vera detangling conditioner
3. Rinse (luke warm water). Shampoo (scalp only in 6 braids) with CON kiwi-lime
4. D/C for 30 minutes with heat with the following mix:
- 1 tbsp evoo
- 7 drops each of peppermint and tea tree oils
- 1 cap full (1 tbsp) of porosity control
- 1-2 tbsp (about 4 pumps) of Nexxux humectress
all mixed into 1/4 cup of each: Lustrasilk shea butter and CON moisture-active deep conditioner
5. Rinse in braids, detagling each section and re-braiding.
6. Spritz and comb through 911 leave-in and aloe vera juice; seal with serum.
7. Rollerset and air-dry.
8. M/S nightly with aloe, ORS carrot oil, coconut oil and cross-wrap.

Wear head-wrap this week.

2011 Staples for Year long stretch!

The conditioners I love to use are:

• Lustrasilk's Shea Butter and Mango (moisturizing deep conditioner, mainly preferred on dry hair with grapeseed, vitamin e oil, and evoo mixed in)
• ORS Replinishing conditioner (protein-based deep conditioner; used every other weekend with heat)
• Herbal Essences Hydralicious (used sometimes mixed with the Lustrasilk)
• Dove Daily moisture (mainly used as a d/c without heat while working out)
• Mane 'n Tale (rotated with Dove)
• V05 clarifying conditioner (used as a shampoo/cleanser [NO MORE SHAMPOO FOR ME])
• Hair One olive oil for dry hair (used as a shampoo/cleanser - love it!)
• Tresumme moisture rich vitamin e (My quick-conditioner, works well mixed with sweet almond oil. I use this to detangle the hair. I USED THIS BEFORE EVERY FINAL RINSE)

My favorite leave-ins are:
( after 2 years of experimentation, I have found that my hair prefers liquid leave-ins versus creamy)

• Cold Aloe Vera juice (my #1leave-in. It seals the cuticle, moisturizes and helps with detangling)
• 911 emergency leave-in (moisturizing)[DISCONTINUED] (Can you believe they took this off of the market???)
• Aphogee pro-vitamin leave-in (keeps the line of demarcation strong!)

My water-based moisturizers are:
(after 2 years of experimentation, I have found that I have to water down most of these a little bit more for my hair)

• Herbal Essences long term relationship
• Tresumme vitamin e (works well as a moisturizer too!)

My Oil-based moisturizer:

• ORS carrot oil (for the occasional straight hair)
• Coconut oil (for straight hair as well)

I may use the following shampoo to clarify (maybe once a month) and after a relaxer

• ORS creamy aloe shampoo
• Nexxus Therapee Moisturizing shampoo

OILS!!!

• EVOO ( pre-pooing overnight!)
• Cocounut ( straight style moisturizer/sealant/occasional scalp treatment)
• Doo grow Mega thick growth oil ( for nightly sealing and for coating my hands before taking down sets)
• Castor (for sealing damaged ends and for slicking and thickening edges. Occasionally used as a scalp treatment)
• Grapeseed, vitamin e, peppermint, and sweet almond oil (for adding to conditioners).

Heat protection and other styling aids:

• Water (as a spritz)
• Fantasia IC serum
• Nexxus Heat protexx
• Frizz ease super serum

That's all for now!

Coconut Milk?

I have been dancing around the thought of coconut milk for the past 4 months. I have just recently discovered (since looking up from my busy life) that I am 4 months post relaxer!!! I have made up my mind that I will not be relaxing for another two months. I will put in my traditional "start-of-the-spring-semester"semi-individual braids, do that regimen for two months, nurture my hair for the three weeks following, and relax sometime in March.

Back to the coconut milk, so I was browsing various hair care boards and decided that it was time to try the milk. Tonight I plan to put in in a spray bottle and use it to saturate my hair like a pre-poo. Then I will D/C with some Dove Daily moisture and co-wash it out with VO5 kiwi clarifying conditioner. I plan to roller-set with my Aphogee leave-in and Fantasia IC heat protection serum.

RESULTS

Well, I thought that the Coconut oil was going to aid my d/c, but I was wrong. When I sprayed it on the new growth, I immediately noticed that it became silkier and more manageable (as far as detangling is concerned. I saturated my entire head root to tip and only used Dove only on the edges to stop the drip. I added a plastic baggy and wrapped that with a towel for over an 1 hour ( my intentions were 15 minutes but I fell asleep).

SO I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO DEEP CONDITION AFTERWARD BUT...I was so wrong!!! My heart said stop when I rinsed each half of my head with luke-warm water. As I let it air-dry in two loose french braids, I realized that my hair felt soft and a little stronger and the new growth was a little looser!. I decided that it was okay to just detangle using my Aphogee leave-in and Fantasia serum.

Loved this experience!!!

NOTE: It is very important to avoid heat and hot water while using the coconut milk or the thicker substance in the milk will curd in your hair.

My wash day: Christmas day

Well this week has been a good week for my hair in general. I mean REALLY GOOD!

I have been looking at naturals and taking tips from them because I want to transition in 2011. I have about 2 inches of new growth that is making me want to relax. And at 18 weeks post, I am really hoping this works during the next semester of college. So, I have a full thing of Silk Elements that I have been itching to try since I ran out of ORS on standby. My relaxer journey is not what I expected (<---which is to be expected). Nonetheless, I am greatful for all of the discipline and understanding of my hair that has taken place over the last two years.



On to the week. I was really good about listening to my hair this week. I co-washed 1x. I moisturized and sealed every night starting with a water spritz first, then following up with a dab of LTR and ORS carrort oil sealed with coconut oil. I skipped the ORS on the nights I did not co-wash.



To co-wash, I rinsed the hair well for 5 minutes and slathered on Dove Daily Moisture from root to end while I did my workout as like a deep condition. After that, I rinsed my hair and co-washed with my Tresumme moisture rich in sections and plaited each section. Lastly, I moisturized with HE LTR and ORS carrot oil and sealed with coconut oil.



Friday, I pre-pooed (all day) with olive oil sealed with coconut oil. Then, I rinsed the hair with warm water for 5 minutes and cleansed it with Hair ONE for dry hair. I let that sit for 5 minutes. My hair felt soooooo good after I rinsed. Why did I go back to shampoo?! Anyway, I thought that it was time for some protein so I did the Aphogee 2-min (honestly for about 10 mintues under a cap). Rinsed and added my deep condtioner: ORS replenishing pak. I dc-ed with no heat overnight. When I got in the shower on Saturday, I sectioned the hair down the middle, then in fours on each side (this made it real easy to detangle). Since I had more time, I had more patience with my hair and I used my Jibere shower comb after detangling each section with my hands from the ends to the root. By using my hands first, I was aslo able to find those stubborn knots which I was able to clear using the rub method for knots.



**To clear out stubborn knots I just gently rub the knot in between my fingers until the hairs loosen and I pull them out a few at a time. LOVE IT!



I braided my hair in the shower in eight braids and moisturized each braid with LTR, ORS and Fantasia serum, combed it all through and re-braided putting a little curl at the end with my fingers.



Lastly, I sat under the dryer for 30 minutes (on low) to dry my hair for a braid-out.

This week's hair stuff

December 19: I pre-pooed overnight with Evco and shampooed that out with my watered down Nexxus. then I followed that with my Tresumme Moisture rich and detangled in four sections the shower and plaited each section. When I got out, I blotted the hair and added my leave-ins in this order:

*Aphogee leave-in

*Aloe vera

*Cream of nature creamy leave-in

*Fantasia Ic Serum.

I combed each one through each time I add

Then, I let my hair air-dry in a rollerset and flat ironed the root with a little Nexxus heat protectant spray. FYI: NO HEAT touched the ends of my hair!

To maintain over the next four days, I just moisturized nightly with evco and wrapped the hair with my hands. I loved the softness and manageability of my hair so I think this regimen is a keeper!

December 22: I rinsed my hair with luke-warm water for 5 minutes then I slathered on some Dove daily moisture and did my workout. After that I gently rinsed the hair and co-washed it with some Tresumme. I used a t-shirt to soak up the water and then I moisturized and sealed with Herbal Essences LTR and evco. Then I plaited in 6 plaits.

-- On some long hair board I found, I was told to sleep with the hair in a position (like plaits) that inflicts the least amount of friction, movement, and stress. So, I think I may do that with the co-washes after workouts.

The star product for Decemeber: extra virgin coconut oil

Struggling to hold on

This may be a rant, but I am so tired of this hair journey mess. I still see breakage of all lengths; I can't afford some of the products I want to try; I really want an all-natural regimen; I need a trim; I need a relaxer; I want to transition; I want to be natural but my relaxed hair is helping me since its all I really know right now; I want braids to work now like they did in the past; I'm tired of set backs; I'm hard-headed; I don't listen my hair; I try to listen to my hair; This shyt takes too much time; I'm not sure if I care!!!!!!!!!!!

I went from texlaxed to relaxed and this is the regimen

My new staple routine since August - October 2010:

*I use this 1 - 10 weeks post relaxer.

- Prepoo/dc (OVER SATURDAY NIGHT) on scalp & hair w/castor oil or evoo or coconut oil - Condition-wash-condition: with Dove on ends only,
- Use a 30-70 mix of NTM, CON, or Nexxus Humectress poo on scalp only (lather and rinse well) and water (1 time only!!!)
- DC w/ matching conditioner and plastic bag w/heated cap for 15-20 minutes.
- Let hair cool down then cool water rinse.
- De-tangle in shower and in sections with Tresumme. Plait each section OR part hair for rollerset in shower.
IT WORKS!

Clarify after pool and use Aphogee 2-min before DC (if needed)

Leave-ins: Aloe spritz and 911 for dry hair

Moisturizer: 1/2 water 1/2 Clairol DR in s-curl bottle OR Ltr

Roller-set w/watered down 911 for dry hair and Fantasia IC heat serum then bun M-F knot-out or twist-out updo on weekends.

Nightly:
-Aloe spritz (keep refrigerated)
-911 leave-in for dry hair
-Pea-sized amount of LTR to ends and edges
-Seal with SAO
Wrap, tie down, baggy (<---my hair loves baggying)


Products to ditch: NTM line.

Staples: Tresumme, Dove, Nexxus, Cream of Nature and natural oils

Wigging/Bunning until: End of Spring semester 2011

This came from my KISS blog for July

I just want to say thank you to those ladies that have read these crazy long post of mine and left wonderful tips and comments. I started this blog as sort of an online journal because I couldn't properly track my progress, products, techniques, and overall journey. That is why you see the same format month to month. I found that monthly regimens help me listen to my hair's needs because I was not so responsive my first year. So, thanks for critiquing my hair care diary. Keep 'em coming!

Setback(s) & Problems:
June 2010: I'm still stretching, so that's a problem within itself. But, my overall breakage, especially at my line of demarcation, has slowed tremendously. I am about 22 weeks post and I am trying to keep things soft and strong like I am supposed to. Still recovering from January's braid/matting issue which won't be fully resolved until I get a 1 inch trim with my relaxer in August.

Solution to June's problem: oil pre-poos, C-W-C method, Mane 'n Tale detangler,
TRESemme vitamin e conditioner mixed with sweet almond oil (sao) as a co-wash, Aphogee green tea, Ion Repair solutions, LOADS of PATIENCE, and my new friend: CHI Keratin Mist.

Current hair status: A little past SL/CBL in the back and CBL and NL on
the sides, moderate/light breakage, with some under-processed sections,
soft but ends are still not as healthy as I would like. I am exactly 22 weeks and 1 day post relaxer. My goal is to get my stretching regimen down while my hair is not very long, and so far...it's working!


Current solutions to try: Continue to listen to my hair, day-to-day, week-to-week- and month-to-month. Summer school has forced me to stretch 8 more weeks than I intended. So I am going with the flow and learn along the way.
I will list below my techniques followed by products because while products are good, techniques make the outcome of using products great.

A. Using a lighter touch when combing, detangling, and braiding/setting. I know it sounds redundant, but I am naturally heavy-handed and I have to keep reminding myself. I only use my shower comb when detangling.
B. Detangling: I like detangling in the shower with my hands first then the comb next, in four sections with TRESemme Vit e (only). I have not found any other conditioner that gives me the kind of slip I can trust. This month I am testing Dove daily moisture as an alternative, but TRESemme Vitamin E is my staple. Detangling outside of the shower requires Mane n Tale Detangler and a moisturizing liquid leave-in. Right now, my favorite is Aphogee's leave-in spray.
C. The weekly protein treatments with the Aphogee system that helped me combat my breakage are now going to be monthly. The Aphogee shampoo, green-tea, and 2-minute will be replaced with Ion Repair Solutions (from Sally's) and CHI keratin mist. I like to clarify before using protein and follow up with a moisture d/c.
D. Styling: Buns all month did not work in June. Instead I ended up wearing my hair in braids and putting on a head-wrap and hat. I will wear the head-wrap (or wig) until the end of July because it's so easy.
E. Moisturizing: I totally fell off the boat with the nightly moisturizing bit. But, I did seal my ends with castor oil, doo gro oil, or sweet almond oil and extra conditioner.
F. Shampooing: I learned I really must pre-poo every time! Castor oil on my scalp every time (for the castor oil challenge); evoo, coconut, and/or sao overnight before wash day; and a moisturizing conditioner on the ends for the C-W-C method. For June I used HE HH or hydralicious or TRESemme (Note to self: I have been having so much fun trying different cheap moisture conditoners. HE conditioners work well 1-10 weeks post while lighter cons like TRESemme vitamin e and Dove daily moisture work well 10+ weeks post for my pre-poos. When I run out of hydralicious, I will try LTR).
G. Luke warm and cool water rinses worked well and I will continue to do this in July. I also did one ACV (1 part acv to 7 parts water) rinse that month which my hair loved! So I will do one this month. I also want to fit in black tea once a week before I d/c so that it can slow up some of this shedding.
H. I didn't have time to even look at my hair during the week so absolutely no combing during week was easy to do. With the braids and head-wrap, it is very easy to not manipulate my hair. But, it is also easy to neglect it as well, so I will co-wash my braids daily in the shower and use that time to m/s until wash day.

Products to try : - Nexxus Therapee and Humectress (alone or mixed into my Lustrasilk with evoo and sweet almond oil (sao)) for wash days - Dove Daily Moisture as a pre-poo/co-wash (testing this, it may replace my HE line because they are really thick which works right after a relaxer, but not at 10+ weeks post) - Nexxus Heat Protexx - Schwarzkopf zero frizz corrective serum extra strength serum w/UV protection (it was a buck at Publix and has panthenol, vitamin e, ceramide 2, and hydrolyzed wheat protein in it) -

Products to purchase - satin rollers (for my ends) - parachute unrefined coconut oil - HE LTR when hydralicious and Dove Daily moisture are used up - Lustrasilk's shea butter cholesterol (the new growth tamer) - TRESemme Vitamin E in the largest bottle possible - a cute, short, full wig (maybe) - bone comb (maybe) - 100% silk shirt (from the thrift store to turn in to scarfs) -

New Staples added to my reggie: Hair One olive oil for dry
hair (for cleansing hair after 10+ weeks post) and Lustrasilk Shea
butter cholesterol (for prepoos 10+ weeks post), CHI keratin mist (for a protein boost, especially at line of demarcation).

Products to modify or ditch: modify plastic hair combs and rollers with a
file and clear nail polish. Ditch: V05 clarifying shampoo (I really do not need clarifying shampoos. If I want to clarify, all I need to do is lather twice with what I have), Care free curl gold, and Profective Anti-breakage strengthening mega moisturizer.

This month's challenges:

1. No Trims (personal): April 1, 2010 til April 1, 2011 (only S&Ds)
   
2. Bun (Head-wrap/wig) Challenge (KISS): March 21 til December 21, 2010
3. Healthy Ends/Protective Styles Challenge (Hairlista): January 2010...
4. KISS Ultimate Challenge: for life and will continuously improve! ^_^
   

Reggie of the month:
Workout days (5x's a week):

• Put hair in bun coated with Tresemme (or Mane n Tale), evoo, and sweet almond oil (sao) and baggy hair while working out. Alternate protein and moisture.
  
• Co-wash with Tresemme moisture rich/sao (every time) and do a cool water rinse.
• M/s in four sections with watered down V05 and doo grow oil
  
• Air dry in four twists or braid with castor oil and silk roller at end (be sure to add extra oil and conditioner to ends).
• Wear head wrap, or braid/twist-out BUNS all week with ends moisturized and tucked away.
  
• Nightly: Mane n Tale detangler on n/g, m/s with watered down v05, doo grow or evoo and seal ends and edges with castor oil and twist/braid.
  

Weekly on Sunday:

• Make black tea and let steep overnight (Saturday), then put into a bottle with a nozzle on Sunday
  
• Pre poo scalp with castor oil and ends with any oil (over Saturday night)
• Coat ends with a little Dove Daily moisture for C-W-C
  
• Shampoo with Nexxus Therapee
  
• Rinse with black tea
  
• D/C with Nexxus Humectress (15 - 30 minutes w/heat)
  
• CHI keratin mist (concentrating on demarcation line)
  
• LTR leave-in (a small amount)
  
• Seal with doo grow (castor oil on edges and ends) and twist in sections
  
• Braid or twist to air-dry
  

Last Thursday of the Month:

• D/C on dry hair with coconut oil for 30 minutes then rinse with water
  
• C-W-C method with Dove Daily moisture on ends
• Shampoo with Aphogee for damaged hair 1-2 times (to clarify)
  
• Condition with Aphogee 2-min no heat 15 minutes with
  cap
• D/C with NEXXUS/CHOLESTEROL mix 15 minutes under dryer
• Rinse with ACV water and blot dry with t-shirt
  
• Add aphogee leave in, and CHI keratin mist (especially to line of demarcation)
  
• Seal ends with castor oil and add zero frizz corrective serum
• Twist or braid and air-dry

Co-washing contender to my TRESemme: Dove Daily Moisture Conditioner

I picked up this little goodie at Kroger on sale for around 3.00 for 12 fl. oz. I have been co-washing with it everyday this week. I am almost 23 weeks post and I am enjoying this as a co-wash in the place of my depleated favorite: TRESemme vitamin E with added sweet almond oil (sao).

Likes:

• VERY moisturizing (brought me back from a slight protein overload cause by a new serum)
• Cheap and accessible
• No additives, like sao, needed
• Rinses clean; Leaves no residue or smell (<---unlike HE HH)
• Small bottle for easy handling and space saving
• Upside down dispenser for easy dispensing
• Consistent results everytime

Dislikes:

• Not as cheap as TRESemme (40 fl.oz for 4.oo) versus Dove (12 fl.oz. for 3.00)
• Finshed bottle in about 8 days

Overall...IT IS A KEEPER!

My Relaxer Preparation Notes (caution: long but informative)

The preparation: (the following portion of this discussion is taken from an article written By Audrey Sivasothy a/k/a sistaslicks) My personal notes are in purple.

Step 1: Clean it Up! Your final shampooing should take place on the last 3-5 days before your relaxer. At this wash (particularly if you desire a straighter, more thoroughly processed result), you should use a clarifying shampoo to remove any deposits or product buildup on the hair. A clarifiying shampoo, or any "stripping" shampoo containing the detergents Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate or Ammonium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate will be strong enough to remove buildup and maintain a clean and clear head of hair.

Step 2: Toughen it Up!You should treat your hair to a protein treatment the final wash before your relaxer. Follow up the treatment with a good moisturizing deep conditioning. Giving your hair a protein treatment in the days leading up to your relaxer application gives your hair little more protein to work with going into the relaxer. This prevents the relaxing process from totally compromising the strength of your hair when your inner protein bonds are manipulated. To determine which strength of protein reconstructor to use, I would first do a breakage assessment of the hair. If you are already having some breakage, I would go with a moderate to heavy treatment for damaged hair. I recommend the Aphogee Treament for Damaged Hair (under $8) for heavy protein conditioning. If you don't have any noticeable breakage, then a lighter/milder treatment should be fine. I would recommend ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2-minute or Nexxus Keraphix as mild protein treatments. After you have completed steps 1 and 2, do not wash, scratch, or do anything to disturb your scalp. (I like to use HB castor oil on my scalp daily up to relaxer day.

Step 3: Protect It! The day of relaxer, pay special attention to the length and ends of your hair. The hair shaft and ends are especially vulnerable to damage from the relaxing process unless you protect them. Applying a light coating of something like olive oil, my mix: roux porosity control, mane n tale original and castor oil , a thick conditioner, grease or vaseline to your scalp and hair past the new growth prevents the rest of your hair from being "re-relaxed" as a result of overlapping and runoff during the final rinsing of the relaxer. Protection for the length and ends of the hair is essential because the short, compact nature of the new growth makes it is virtually impossible to avoid overlap. This "chemical run" and lack of protection for the shaft and ends is one of the many reasons quite a few relaxed ladies have thinner, and thinner ends. Also remember, that oiling the new growth itself may leave you underprocessed because the relaxer has to penetrate through the layers you have put on. If you want a straighter turnout, be sure that you do not coat your new growth-- only coat your scalp and hair shaft past the new growth. As always, apply protective base (vaseline, oil, grease) to your scalp, tops of ears, and other sensitive areas . The base will give you an extra layer of protection between the relaxer crème and those areas.

Step 4: Stand Test It! Perform a strand test before applying any relaxer (or hair coloring chemicals) to your hair, even if you have previously used the chemical in question. Our bodies change, and so does our tolerance and allergies to certain products. Also, it is not uncommon for companies to alter formulas over the years as well. A chemical that may have worked well for you for years may suddenly fail to give you desired effect it once did. Performing a strand test will always let you know where you stand.

Pre-Relaxer Considerations: When you're ready to begin the chemical relaxing process, please take time to consider the following questions:
1.) How straight should my hair be? How far should I go? The obvious answer is as straight as possible right? Wrong! Do not rely on a chemical relaxer to take you to a 100% degree of straightness. Remember, you can always flat iron your hair for a bone straight look anytime without compromising the inner structure of your hair. I recommend that you relax your hair only to about an 80-90% degree of straightness I prefer 70-85%, where some natural texture remains. Relaxing the hair bone straight increases your odds of hair thinning and loss over time. Your hair will hold moisture better and maintain much of its natural strength if you do not relax your hair bone straight.
2.) Can I Lessen the harsh effects of my chemical relaxer? Chemical relaxers contain very harsh ingredients, but you can reduce the aggressiveness of your chemical relaxer. To reduce the harsh effects of your relaxer, simply add 1/8 - ¼ of a cup of your favorite oil or conditioner to the creme. This additional material will help to condition your hair. It will also buy you valuable application time during your self-relaxing process by slowing the processing of the relaxer. Any oil or lightweight conditioner will do! I use olive oil.

STAGE 1: Prep Hair and Gather your Materials:

• Gloves - To protect your hands from harsh relaxer chemicals. Relaxer chemicals can irritate your hands and weaken or discolor fingernails which, like your hair, are composed of protein.


• Base/Oil - To protect your hair and scalp.Be sure to coat the entire length of hair to protect previously chemically relaxed portions from further damage.


• Relaxer - Choose your relaxer based on your own hair type and desired turnout. I use ORS lye normal for 15-20 minutes.


• Applicator Brush - Optional. For use if you do not wish to apply chemical relaxer creme with your gloved fingers, comb or mixing stick (that comes in no-lye kits).


• Towels - 1 Small hand towel for your face, 1 large towel to drape over your shoulders during relaxer application, 1 towel to drape during the rinsing stage, 1 towel to dry the hair, an extra clean towel just in case!


• Timer/Clock -To keep track of time


• Combs - After your initial four corner partings, a comb is optional. A comb can inadvertently scratch or irritate your scalp during relaxer application so use with caution. But, it lessens the additional heat from your fingers that can sometimes speed up processing. For a normal touch-up the back of a straight rattail comb can be used for application. For correctives ONLY, a wide-toothed comb may be used to comb the relaxer through the underprocessed sections.


• Neutralizing Shampoo - Select a neutralizing shampoo with a color alarm or indicator. Choose a chelathing neutralizing shampoo for no-lye relaxers to remove calcium deposits.


• Mild Protein Conditioning Treatment - for mid-relaxer protein conditioning step (optional). Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin reconstructor, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pacs are good protein conditioning treatments to use.


• Deep Moisturizing Conditioner - Select a thick, creamy moisturizing conditioner for following up your relaxer application. (See regimen builder)


• 4-8 clips/holders - To keep loose hair controlled while you section and apply relaxer to your hair. Plastic smooth clips are best!

Be sure to gather your materials well before you actually begin the relaxer application. Having everything you need beforehand will enhance efficiency and save precious time.

STAGE 2: APPLY THE CHEMICAL RELAXER IMPORTANT! Before you start your chemical relaxer application, make sure that you have properly prepared your hair to undergo this process by following the 4 critical steps in this article.

Application Methods:
A.) Gloved Finger Method - Hands are gloved and chemical relaxer is smoothed onto sections with the fingers or the back of a comb. This method offers less control for applying the relaxer neatly. The heat from your hands may also cause the relaxer to process quicker.

B.) Applicator Paintbrush Method- The professional recommended relaxer application. The hair is parted and relaxer is "painted" or smoothed onto the newgrowth with the applicator brush. This method also gives the user more control of the relaxer application and best prevents overlapping.

C.) Applicator Bottle Method - some have reported that this method gives lots of control due to the relaxer being squeezed directly onto new growth out of a nozzle. But be careful not to place the bead of relaxer too close to/on the scalp and be sure to "pull" the relaxer all the way down all of the new growth.

Application Steps:

• Step 1.) Divide your hair into 4 sections, parting your hair from ear to ear and then right down the middle. This will give you 2 sections in the front and 2 in the back.

• Step 2.) Work with one section of hair at a time. Use your clips to tie back the other sections of hair while you concentrate on the section you are working on. Begin working on the most resistant section of the four you have created, saving your edges and nape for last. You should either start an inch or two up from the neck line, or an inch or two back from the front hairline in the sections you are working on.

• Step 3.) Make ½ inch partings* in the section you are working on and apply the relaxer to the curly newgrowth. Take care not to overlap the crème onto the previously relaxed areas, and keep the relaxer away from your scalp. (Hopefully you will have already based your scalp so that if you do touch your scalp-you'll have a buffer to prevent damage). When you complete this section, unpin another and repeat.*Do not attempt to part through your hair perfectly with a comb, especially if you are several weeks post relaxer. This is unnecessary manipulation. Finger parting will work just as well. You want to part, lift, and apply to both sides. Be sure that you coat both sides of the hair strand with your mixture!Switch it Up! It is good to alternate your starting point with subsequent relaxer applications if you do not have any painfully resistant areas. For instance, if you begin with the back left section each and every time you relax, relax this section last the next time around. If you consistently relax a section first each time, this section of your hair becomes compromised because it is always exposed to chemicals for the longest periods of time. Years and years of relaxing this section first may begin to thin it out. Switch up your starting point from time to time, so that particular sections are not over exposed time and time again.

• Step 4.) Your relaxer should be processing your hair at this point and starting to break down your disulfide bonds. It is now your job to do the actual "straightening." Gently smooth and work the relaxer creme into the hair, making sure that you are not overlapping the chemical relaxer creme onto previously relaxed sections. Work the relaxer in a downward motion, making sure that you are keeping the cuticle layers pointing downward at all times. Your fingers should be smoothing the hair in ONE downward direction. Do not work the relaxer "against the grain," past the newgrowth, or down the shaft. DO NOT COMB THE RELAXER THROUGH THE HAIR. Keep your eye on the clock. Chemical relaxer timing depends on the texture, porosity, and condition of your hair in addition to the look you want to achieve. You should follow the time frame instructions for the relaxer you are planning to use. Speed is the key to a successful application. Do NOT wait until the relaxer begins to tingle or burn your scalp! Many of us have been raised to believe that the relaxer is "working" when it begins to tingle. This is far from the truth! The chemical relaxer is indeed working, but working on eating through your scalp and hair making it weaker by the second! Relaxers should never burn. Ever! You should never allow your hair to even reach the point of tingling. A tingling/burning relaxer is a sign that: a.) The chemical has been in contact with the scalp for entirely too long and b.) The relaxer has breached the protective base barrier that was placed on the scalp and is now working on breaking down the hair even further. By this point, you've waited too long to rinse and usually you can expect some scabbing, watering, or oozing of the scalp in the affected areas several days after the relaxer. These chemical relaxer burns are not "the cost of doing business." They should not be taking place period. Scabbing is a sure sign of improper relaxer application, and if you, a stylist, or someone else is applying your relaxers only to result in scabs later, drop them. LET THEM GO! They are causing you much more harm than good.

• Step 5: Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer crème from your hair with warm water. Ensure that all physical traces of relaxer have been rinsed. Your hair is still extremely vulnerable to relaxer damage due to the unstable, high pH pf the hair and your swollen, lifted cuticle layers. Handle your hair with extreme care!

STAGE 3: The Mid-Relaxer Conditioning Protein Step
Several relaxer formulations come with a mid-relaxer protein conditioning step that involves the application of a mild protein treatment between the relaxer rinsing and neutralizing stages of the chemical relaxer process. This five minute step is done essentially to restore protein stores lost or compromised during the relaxer application. The great thing about this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is that it can be safely performed with any chemical relaxer brand that you like and with any mild protein conditioner that you like! The steps are simple.

1. Thoroughly rinse the relaxer crème from your hair with warm water after processing.


2. Apply your mild protein conditioning treatment to your hair for three to five minutes.


3. Rinse thoroughly and proceed with the rest of your neutralizing procedure.

The Benefits: The main benefit of this mid-relaxer protein procedure is the maximum penetration of the protein molecules deep into the hair shaft that it permits. As you have read, relaxers disturb and destroy the protein bonding structure of our hair. This is the same structure that is responsible for our hair's strength and elasticity. The point after the relaxer is rinsed, and right before the neutralizing phase is the most critical point in the relaxing process for the hair shaft. It is here that the hair cuticle is most open and receptive to treatments. Yet another benefit of this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is the increased body, strength, and volume it gives the hair following a chemical relaxer. The hair does not exhibit that limp, thin lifeless look that it typically has after a fresh relaxer. This mid protein step actually increases the body and thickness of the hair shaft!Why this worksBecause of the relaxer's high pH, the cuticle layer is the most open it will ever be. Introducing the protein at this phase allows for maximum protein penetration and replacement due to the extreme lifting of the cuticle layer following the relaxing process.But Will the relaxer still continue to process my hair? The relaxing process is a chemical reaction that is not compatible at low pHs. Relaxers work in the 10-14 pH range. It is the low pH of the neutralizer that stops the neutralizing process, nothing special. Any and all of the products you apply following the rinsing of the relaxer help to gradually bring the pH of your hair back down to its normal pH of about 4.5 to 5.5. The water from the initial warm water rinsing of the relaxer has a neutral pH of around 7. The water's neutral pH helps bring the relaxer pH down a bit from its usual 10 to 14 pH range to a range of about 8 or 9 . The protein conditioner has a low, normalizing pH of 4 to 6 as well so it also brings your hair's pH down so that your hair isn't processing at full strength. The neutralizer finishes and seals the process. It typically bears the lowest pH of any product used during the relaxing process, so it helps bring down pH of the hair even more. This step is where the cuticles close back down the tightest. Doing the protein before this happens is the key, however, do not allow the protein treatment to linger on the hair longer than five to seven minutes. You still need to quickly move on to the rest of the neutralizing phase. This five minute protein step is optional, but it works!

STAGE 4: The Neutralizing Rinse
The neutralizing step is the most important, yet surprisingly most misunderstood phase of the relaxing process. Unfortunately, this step is where many relaxer applications go terribly wrong. If the hair is not properly neutralized, the relaxer will continue to work on the bonds within the hair strand. If the amount of relaxer residue still left remaining within the hair strand after you have neutralized and moved on is significant, then permanent hair loss and thinning will result. Neutralizer should be allowed to sit undisturbed on the hair shaft for 3 to 5 minutes before it is rinsed. It must be given sufficient time to actually penetrate the hair shaft, adjust the hair's pH, and halt the chemical reactions taking place deep within the hair strand. A few quick latherings and rinses will not get this done satisfactorily.**Note: During the neutralizing process (mid-protein and neutralizing shampoo steps), you should make sure that you are not roughing up the cuticle layers of the hair in any way. Always work your post relaxer products down the shaft in one direction. No lathering, or scrunching the hair, etc. The straighter you keep your hair during the neutralizing process, the straighter the hair will turn out in the end. As your hair is neutralizing, your hair's bonds are "freezing" or falling into their final, permanent place. If you direct the hair downward in a straight orientation with care:

1.) You ensure a neat arrangement of bonds in the final turnout and
2.) Reduce permanent damage to the shaft as the cuticles begin closing.

A color indicator is extremely important!Using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator or color alarm will reveal many things to you about the neutralizing process. One is that, relaxer chemicals are not easily removed from the hair shaft. Another is that gentle scalp scrubbing during the neutralizing process will reveal even deeper traces of relaxer. Even with the best basing, some relaxer will breach your protective layer. You must get this deep penetrating relaxer out as soon as possible. You should insist on using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator for all of your relaxer applications. This color alarm acts as a "litmus test " that reads the pH of a particular chemical and produces a tell-tell color to inform you of any chemical change. Relaxers raise the pH of the hair in order to lift and open the hair cuticle for the straightening process. Neutralizing shampoo enters the raised cuticle to lower the pH of the hair and halt the relaxing process. This litmus test is the only way that you can be 100% sure that the hair's pH has been restored to normal levels and that the chemical action of the relaxer has truly stopped within the strand. Relaxers are not surface-acting chemicals that can easily be rinsed away. These chemicals penetrate the hair shaft very deeply, so one or two quick rinses with a neutralizing shampoo is not enough to halt the relaxer action. With a typical neutralizing shampoo it can take anywhere from 15-45 minutes and several vigorous rinses before the color alarm indicates that you have removed all traces of the relaxer from deep within the hair strand.